Recently I joined a group of tour operators on a trip to the new Apoka Safari Lodge, in Kidepo Valley National Park. I knew nothing about the region, and had no idea what to expect. All I knew was that we would be flying there, and that Kidepo is about as far from Kampala as you can get without a passport.

We flew with Eagle Air, who have several scheduled flights a week to Gulu and Kitgum. From Kitgum they can add an extra ‘hop’ to get you to Kidepo. When we landed at the airstrip at Kidepo, the manager his able team of staff met us off the plane, loaded our luggage into a safari vehicle and drove us to the lodge, about five minutes away. Hot, dusty and thirsty from the flight, we were warmly greeted on our arrival with chilled face towels and refreshing cold drinks. Already we were being pampered!

We were led into the main lodge – a vast, raised timber structure with soaring thatched roof and stunning views across the entire park – to have high tea; a selection of afternoon sweet and savoury snacks with tea and coffee. The armchairs are huge, the cushions are soft, and as we sat and drank in the view, enjoying the comfort, our luggage was spirited away to our rooms.

Are they rooms? Are they cottages? Are they bandas? Whatever they are called, they are lovely. There are 10 Cottages at Apoka, built of wood, canvas and thatch. Some have one big king size bed, some have two queen size beds. The design and décor in the rooms is well thought out – it may appear simple, but nothing is lacking, and the simplicity lets the stunning scenery outside take centre stage. Hardwood floors, naturally dyed carpets in hues of chocolates and cream, plush white towels, handwoven cream bedspreads, long white curtains…all relaxing in a ‘Safari zen’ sort of way. All of the beds are romantically draped in mosquito netting, all the rooms have electric lights and power points (the generator is turned off at 11pm each night).

Best of all, the rooms have en-suite bathrooms with flush toilets, double basins and a large shower with hot and cold running water. The shower at Apoka Safari Lodge is the best shower I have had since moving to Uganda - the water pressure was amazing, and the solar heating works a treat! Each room also has an outside bathtub (big enough for two or three!) that has been carved out of the rock face - each bathtub has its own private view across the savanna to the mountains. You can lie in the bath, drink in hand, watching zebra, buffalo and waterbuck wandering by. If that isn’t enough, every room has a private veranda and large comfortable sitting area with sofa and armchair. You can read your book, contemplate life, work on your laptop, or gaze out your picture window at the view. Your choice.

The afternoon saw us heading off in an open game-viewing vehicle for a late afternoon game drive. Our vehicle was equipped with a cooler box that was packed with snacks and a selection of drinks which I tackled the minute we stopped for sundowners. On this drive we saw Buffalo dotted all over the place (herds at Kidepo are larger than anywhere else in the country) with Zebra and Duiker nearby. I must have spotted at least 10 different species of birds on the first game drive, some I had never seen before. I saw three Abyssinian Hornbills, a Hammerkop, guinea fowl, a number of plovers, the Jackson’s Hornbill, the mouse bird, the White Stork, a hooded eagle, copious amounts of Franklins and a Night Jar. We also saw Giraffe (this is the only park where you get both giraffe and zebra), Oribi, Water Buck, a Dik Dik, Jackson’s Hartebeest, elephant, the side spotted Jackal, – and all this on the first game drive. It was a visual feast.

As night fell, I found myself constantly looking up in awe of the night sky. I cannot remember ever seeing so many stars in the sky and as I walked, all around me in the dead of night were the sounds of animals grazing nearby. Luckily an askari was on hand to guide me to the main lodge. They are on duty every night from 7pm to 7am. To call them to your room you flash the front door light and they will come to escort you.

Dinner, a social affair, was held in the main lodge at a big long hardwood table surrounded by leather safari chairs. We all sat together and talked about our day’s adventures. It felt like a big dinner party. The food was great, the waiters kept pouring the wine (all drinks are included) and we talked into the night.

The morning came and I woke up just before dawn, feeling that I was not alone. Zebra and Waterbuck were grazing right outside my cottage – I could reach out and touch them. I headed up to the Lodge to join the rest of the guests for a morning coffee, fresh fruit and rusks before heading out on the 7am walking safari. Steve, one half of the management couple - is a fully licensed South African Wildlife Guide and has a wealth of knowledge on both animals and birdlife. The walking safari was an absolute pleasure and an experience I will never forget. We saw so much and learned as we went along – you realise how much you miss when sitting in the car – the sounds, the smells, the adrenaline rush. Kidepo is one of only two places in Uganda where this is possible. The entire walking safari was amazing and a ‘must do’ for those who go to the lodge. (All activities are included in the price).

Back at the Lodge, it was time to relax and unwind after the exercise in the heat. There is a massive swimming pool at the lodge, carved out of a large rock. You can dive off a rocky promontory into the cool water, or slip in from the ladder…or lie on a pool bed under a white canvas umbrella and watch the animals at the watering hole. It is not uncommon to see elephant sharing the watering hole with warthog, zebra and buffalo, all patiently waiting their turn. I chose the sunbed. It was a particularly hot day and I was constantly plied with cold refreshments by the staff to quench my thirst and stave off the heat.

All of the staff – except the chef and the management couple – are Karimajong and come from the local community. Before being employed at Apoka, most of them had no formal training at all. They did a wonderful job of looking after us, smiling the entire time. Apoka Lodge is probably the first tourism venture in Karamoja for a long time! On our last evening the men performed a wonderful dance for us, singing under the stars, leaping high into the night.

Our final game drive on the last day yielded a total surprise, Lions and lots of them. Draped in a tree. It is common belief that in Uganda, tree-climbing lions are only found in Ishasha… and here was proof to the contrary. Two lionesses, with great, fat bellies, were lying in the thick branches of a sausage tree. Beneath them, in the cool shade and tall grasses were several cubs, mewling for attention. We sat and watched. Here we were, in the far remote reaches of the country, all alone in the huge national park, no other tourists, no other vehicles, watching lions in a tree. What a treat.

After a great adventure, after being spoilt rotten and treated to absolute luxury bythe staff of Apoka Lodge, we left on the next Eagle Air flight out of the Kidepo Valley National Park feeling completely relaxed and eager to return to this very beautiful, remote part of the country.

Fact File:
Apoka Safari Lodge is owned by the Uganda Safari Company (whose properties now fall under the ‘Wildplaces’ umbrella). The same people own and operate Semliki Lodge and the Emin Pasha hotel.
The Lodge is situated in the heart of the Narus Valley in the Kidepo Valley National Park and consists of 1438 sq kilometres of remote wilderness. Kidepo is situated in the far Northern parts of the country where Uganda meets Kenya and Sudan.

All Activities and drinks are included in the rates.

For more info contact: The Uganda Safari Company
Tel: +256 (0)41 251182
Mobile: +256 (0)772 489497
Fax: +256 (0)41 344653
Email: info@safariuganda.com
Web: www.safariuganda.com
www.wildplacesafrica.com