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The Insider's Guide to Uganda | ![]() |
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This was going to be no ordinary lodge – with the help of a book on how to construct log cabins, Steve first experimented by building a small cabin and then set out to build 8 cottages and the main building which now make up Kyaninga Lodge. After some trial and error he found how to join huge Eucalyptus trunks so that when they settled he had sealed walls. The “walls” sink as the logs settle (under their own weight) so to build an eight and a half foot high ceiling you have to make it nine foot high initially. You also have to construct the staircases in an angle so as when the logs settle the staircases become level, as well as make the window frames “float” so they don’t get crushed during the settling period. But this was only half the challenge. The whole lodge
is set on the rim of an ancient volcanic lake, so the
cottages are all on enormous stilts to make them
level. These have been supplemented by a system
of stone pillars that look like a Roman aquifer to raise
up the walkways to connect the main lodge with the
cottages.
No expense has been spared. The beds have excellent linen and fantastic down pillows (there are also silk pillows upon request for those allergic to downs). All rooms have “black out” curtains as well so if you want to lie in you don’t even realise you are about to miss breakfast! The bathroom fittings were imported from England and each bathroom has twin basins, flushing loos with views, a standalone bath and a shower with plenty of hot solar heated water, and soft fluffy towels of course. The whole lodge is powered by solar and each room has adequate lighting for reading and a socket for charging phone, cameral and computers. Don’t try and use an iron or kettle, it will trip! Each Cottage has a huge terrace with sunbeds and chairs (homemade of course) with breath taking views of the lake and sounds of the birds surrounding the lake. The main lodge is essentially similar to the cottages but has an impressive fireplace built out of the local volcanic rock. It is divided into two, with a dining area and a lounging/bar area with galleys above each section where you can hide away and read a book or have a romantic meal for two. In front of the lodge is the swimming pool with sun decks and below there are some lawns on top of the cliffs (again walled in with the local volcanic rock) that give you the feeling you are staying at some Sardinian retreat. In fact, since the lodge is essentially a showroom for Kyaninga Homes (the part of the business that will build you a log cabin, transport and assemble it for you anywhere), you can buy any furniture or ask to have them copied. So, enough about the building, I know you all want to know about the food. Again here, Steve and his fiancé Asha have excelled. They have brought in an English chef to train their cooks and the dinners we had while staying there were excellent. Whole breast of sweet and sour chicken one night, and tender fillet steak with mash potatoes and vegetables, the next night. We had some excellent home smoked fish as a starter and chocolate mousse and apple tart for desserts. Lunches were a little simpler, salads, soup with good homemade rolls and need some working on, as does the breakfast and the standard of the waiters, but I am sure by the time they are properly open these will be ironed out. There have built steps all the way to the lake so mountaineering gear is not required if you want to go swimming in the lake or take a walk along the bottom of the cliffs and get closer to the wildlife including caves with bats. The lodge also prides itself on its lawn tennis court (which we enjoyed playing croquet on while drinking Moscow Mules) and lawn Badminton court which surround the vegetable garden and upcoming fruit orchard. Other activities include a local village tour seeing which crops are locally grown and some tales of ancient battles between warring kings many moons ago. One of the lodge’s aims is working with NEMA to re-forest the slopes surrounding the lake. Over the years the land has been cleared for firewood and encroached by fields leaving them bare. The lodge is actively planting indigenous shrubs and trees that are already making a difference, especially to the local bird life. The lake is teaming with birdlife, including noisy Hornbills and Turocos. There are also troops of Colobus, Velvet and Red Tail Monkeys who occasionally visit the lodge. Apart from the lake shore, Kyaninga Lodge also has an active programme to conserve the environment, in the way of giving away both indigenous and Eucalyptus tree seedlings to the local population for their own use and to replenish the supply for future furniture making. We only stayed two nights and I think if you really want to enjoy this idyllic spot you need to stay longer. We will be going back to Kyaninga Lodge for sure.
Getting there: Eds Note: Eucalyptus trees are renowned for being very thirsty plants and therby, destroying wetlands if they are planted in swamps. However, if planted correctly they are excellent at providing building materials and firewood (due to their re-propagating properties) and can save many of the natural forests remaining in Uganda. For more information / reservations, please
contact:- |
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©2001-2010 The Eye Uganda. All Rights Reserved. |
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