With the roads the way they are in Uganda it is traditional to start with the journey from Kampala. My advice for this one is to start early at the crack of dawn, which is about early enough to beat the traffic out of town as you have to negotiate several of the early morning congestion points.

As with many of the main arterial roads leading to other parts of the country, the Hoima road is no different in that it is under construction but will be a dream in a few months time when it is complete. So you have made it to Hoima, a busy town and somehow larger than I expected.

Now you have to ask for the road that leads to Kaseeta. This is now the dirt road and if you have left in good time the part where the extra time will pay dividends as you need to do this part in daylight or it can be slippery if it has been raining. Beware it is also well used by fish trucks who have a disregard for all other road users. Having turned right when you get to Kaseeta Trading Centre you are now only a few km’s away from the escarpment that will give you a clue as to why the journey is worth it as you travel down the escarpment. You will encounter breathtaking views of the savanna which looks as though it has been untouched since the dawn of time.

You have now entered Kabowya Game reserve, not one of Uganda’s most famous but one that is still a jewel in the crown. This is not the place you will see the big game so if that’s what you are looking for go to Queen Elizabeth. Bruce (the owner of the lodge) will tell you there are reintroduction plans for some species. The roads have been vastly improved by the oil industry which makes the last part of the journey bearable. Start by looking for a large array of beautiful and colorful birds, there will be easy sightings of woodland kingfisher, Abysynyan ground hornbill, sunbirds and of course birds of prey. You will see warthog and baboon though we have all seen them before while looking for the more elegant Kob, Waterbuck and Oribi.

On arrival at the lodge Bruce and his wife Nicci offer a warm welcome and are happy to cater for any special requirements which will add comfort to your stay. Abdul behind the bar will happily serve a beer or your drink of choice to help you relax while you unwind from hectic city life. Food away from Kampala has always struck me as basic, though care has been taken to offer first class food.

The front of the lodge is of stone and thatch and looks like a post card however rush to the rear and take in one of the most spectacular views of Congo’s Blue Mountains and if the timing is correct, wait and have a sundowner and see the sunset casting its reflection over lake Albert and the silhouette of the mountains. There is a small dip pool to cool down in, which is a godsend in this dusty area.

The lodge is a little on the small side when busy, though the rooms are well designed and all have a picturesque view of lake and mountains, but because of their layout I would ask for a room furthest away from the lodge as there is a footpath in front of your view - so beware if you are on a romantic weekend.

A walk down the cliffs was recommended but Abdul waved a tusker at me as I was walking out so I will take Nicci’s word for it that there are black and white colobus monkeys down there. I would recommend if the ground is dry to take up Bruce’s offer of a night drive where you might be lucky enough to see the other side of the plains. I saw Civet, Genet and Cervil cats as well as jackals roaming and preying on small rodents and rabbits. The night can also be the best time to see dykers and bushbucks and of course the nocturnal birds. I am told this is a good place to see scorpions but they stayed away, probably for their own good, as well as snakes if that is what you are looking for.

Phone coverage is good except UTL and there is no internet at present, which is great if you want to get away from it all but you can feel isolated if you are there for a while. In the valley there is oil exploration which unless you go looking for it you would not know its there but they have made the journey easier. Both ventures are working with each other to conserve this small but beautiful corner of Uganda which I hope they maintain.