Review by Charlie Case

One of my favourite restaurants in Nairobi has always been Mediterraneo (there are actually two, one in Westlands and one in Junction) so I was very excited to hear that Stefano and Ivana were opening a Mediterraneo in Kampala.

Mediterraneo brings together some of the best qualities that one would seek in a fine restaurant: good food, good ambience and good service.

The welcoming atmosphere at Mediterraneo begins with a host or hostess greeting you at the door and finding you a table. Once seated, fresh grissini (breadsticks) and Focaccia (bread) come directly to the table along with olive oil and vinegar before you are presented with the menu. The personnel are extremely friendly and the service impeccable.The décor at Mediterraneo goes a long way to setting the mood of the restaurant. Unlike their counterparts in Kenya which have that rather eclectic décor that Italian restaurants seem to possess (Very woodsy, with empty wine bottles strewn around as decoration, making them warm and cosy), Mediterraneo-Kampala is more elegant with art deco style interior. There is an indoor and outdoor terrace section - which I prefer, complete with tall columns giving you the feeling you are dining in Rome. The pizza oven is also outside adding to the ambience.

Italian cuisine is characterized by its flexibility, its range of ingredients and its many regional variations. It is an important element of the Italian lifestyle, and mainly reflects the rural culture and history of the many peoples of the country. The menu at Mediterraneo encompasses these values with a selection of typical Italian fare, including excellent Pastas, a wide variety of traditional Antipasti (starters), Secondi Piati (Main Courses), Pizzas and Calzone (folded pizza), Focaccia and Dolci (desserts). I have eaten at Mediterraneo several times, and I have never had a meal that I didn’t enjoy. It’s one of those places!

Some of the antipasti I would recommend are the Bresaola della Valtellina (thin slices of cured beef with olive oil, lemon juice, parmesan cheese and rocket) or the Salmone affumicato Norvegese (Norwegian smoked Salmon). For a main course their Carpaccio (raw, thinly sliced beef arranged on a plate with a simple accompaniment of olive oil, artichoke hearts, parmesan and rocket) is excellent as is the Filetto alla Crema di Gorgonzola (Beef fillet with Gorgonzola cheese sauce).They also have a Carpaccio of Speck and Nile Perch as starters - although true Carpaccio is beef, nothing else. The Carpaccio di Nile Perch is otherwise known as Ceviche - raw fish marinated in lemon juice, which chemically 'cooks' the fish - served with olive oil. This is delicious as a starter, although like all their portions quite large, so ask the waiter to give you a break between courses as true Italians would. The last time I went for dinner I had to skip the Tiramisu dessert as I only had room for an Italian espresso

Some of the pasta dishes I have tried include the Ravioli Ricotta e Spinaci in Salsa di Pomodoro (Ravioli filled with ricotta cheese and spinach) and the Pappardelle ai Funghi Porcini (hand made fresh wide cut Tagliatelle pasta with real Italian porcini mushrooms) which were both tasty. The Risottos and the salads are good and can be eaten as main meals.

My only complaint is that the selection of Italian and South African wines is quite limited, however I was informed this is being improved.
The restaurant is located in Nakasero, behind the Mayfair Casino. This ensures it has lots of parking and is popular with the Muzungu businessman crowd for lunch.
If you haven’t been to Mediterraneo yet, this restaurant will delight your senses. I recommend it highly, especially for celebrations of any kind: a birthday, an anniversary, or a reunion. For a special occasion, if its midweek try your luck and go but on weekends it is recommended to reserve a table in advance.
Price range: Ugandan standard: high, European standard: moderate

For more information, please contact:
Mediterraneo Ristorante Pizzeria, Kisozi Close, off Nakaerso Lane, Nakasero
Tel: 041 4258448
A word of caution about dining out in Kampala — the prices on the wine lists are likely to make you gasp. This is due to the extortionate taxes put on wines in this country coupled with the overgenerous mark-ups added by most restaurants. It is best to come prepared for this. Whilst house wines are generally palatable, I wouldn’t recommend ordering the cheapest wines on the list unless you have no taste buds and don’t mind waking up with a crashing headache.