Review by: Georgie Higginson (KuTunza Travel)

The view overlooking Lake Mburu National Park was breathtaking. The sun had already burnt off the early morning mist and the watering hole, which was perfectly placed, enticed a large group of Ugandan Kob and a few Eland down for a drink. The undulating hills rolled into the heat haze and the vast area of scrub and trees gave excellent cover for whatever else shaded beneath them. Our vantage point was perfect.....the stunning infinity pool at Mihingo Lodge. From the far edge I turned in the cool, clear water and swam back to the shallows.

We had arrived at the lodge the previous afternoon - an easy 4 hour journey from Kampala. Within minutes of turning left off the main road and into Lake Mburu National Park a vast heard of Ankole cattle were spotted, our safari had begun! Their vast horns angled demonically towards the vehicle, and young calves skittishly jogged to keep up, as the mass of animals moved from the dirt track and into the bush. Their cover blown, a herd of zebra trotted off, the zig and zag of their markings striking. Further into the park Impala raced - leaping with effortless grace and agility whilst the woolly looking water buck, with their comical white bottoms, watched us nervously before resuming their grazing. At Nshara Gate we spoke with a UWA warden to confirm the directions to the lodge. We were told it was about 8kms away, but well signposted. The path twisted and turned and slabs of slate, decorated with the Lodge's name, indicated we were on the right track. At one point the road opened up and what lay before us was a wide plain and in the distance, a rocky outcrop - a hill covered with enormous rocks, boulders, trees and what looked like a thatched roof or two - our final destination.

The road narrowed as we drove around the base of the hill and eventually came to a stop, at a dusty car park. A group of young Ugandan men and woman stood in the shade and as we clambered out of the vehicle they greeted us warmly - they were Mihingo Lodge's welcoming committee. Our group was small, four friends (including a baby who was celebrating her 1st birthday) but as usual we had plenty of luggage, including a guitar. However within the blink of an eye everything was taken from our hands, up the hill, out of sight and to our rooms. We were led up a path and into the lodge's beautiful, open restaurant where we stood under the vast thatched roof and stared in wonder at the view before us - Lake Mburu National Park. Outside and to the right the impressive infinity pool sat on the edge of the kopje - the water disappearing seamlessly over the edge. The attractive bar, separate from the restaurant, was reached

by steps down to the left and from there another set of steps took you out onto a large viewing platform, built around the edge of the rock and sympathetically between the trees, where it offered a shaded view of the watering hole. A camp fire had also been created signalling the perfect place to tell safari stories whilst drinking cups of amarula coffee.

We were offered freshly squeezed juice and refreshing hand towels to wipe away the dust and introduced to Ralph, the owner. He gave us a brief on how he and his wife had found this incredible spot 5 years ago after camping on the rocks and wondering if it could be built upon. They decided it could. Then came the purchasing of the land, a drama in itself. How they bought in an architect from Kenya to help with the design. How trucks got stuck in the rains whilst carrying the building materials. How they had to engineer the water up from a dam and into the rooms. And how the majority of the staff are from around the local area with a few experienced individuals from Kampala. The thought and imagination that has gone into creating Mahingo Lodge is what initially strikes you, as well as its position, and this process has certainly been taken into account when creating the rooms.

The lodge offers 10 individual rooms scattered along the top and down the side of the wide kopje. They are all individual, all completely private and all command incredible views - to the west over the national park, or to the east, over Lake Kachera. My husband and I were escorted to our large double room which was a stunning combination of part safari tent - erected onto a wide wooden floor leading out onto a decking -attached to a permanent building incorporating the hallway and bathroom, all of which is covered by a layered, thatched roof. The rooms are simply, but tastefully decorated. Striped curtains cover the doorways, bedside table lamps are connected to a multi socket outlet, the wide mossi proof windows in the bathroom let in plenty of light, the shower is curved and open offering terrific views, as does the toilet! Towels and soap are offered and if you can wait a few minutes for the solar to heat the water, you'll have a piping hot shower. On the horizon Lake Kachera stretched ahead of us, although not in the park, it was stunning.

Having changed for dinner we ventured into the bar and by now candles had been lit and placed in the nooks within the walls. Brightly coloured cushions were scattered on the permanent sofa creating a relaxed and comfortable vibe and a dish of snacks were placed on a table. We ordered drinks and chatted with other guests, until later a waitress came over to take us to our table in the restaurant. Our first course was a homemade, flavoursome tomato soup with fresh bread and the main course was served buffet style. We were wowed by the tasty lamb, fresh vegetables, thick gravy and mint sauce - nothing had been missed and we were all offered seconds. For dessert it was creme caramel and although a struggle, seeing that we'd eaten so much already, we managed to squeeze it in. After dinner we were asked at what time in the morning we would like tea or coffee brought to our rooms, and knowing we'd be up early, we suggested 7am. After another drink in the bar we ventured back to our room, a full moon and hurricane lamps guiding the way.

We awoke the next morning to the distant whooping of a hyena and the rising of the sun over the lake. Our tea & coffee & biscuits did indeed arrive, but not until 7:30am - not a problem as we weren't going on a game drive, but there might have been a delay if we were! After a lazy hour spent drinking tea on the decking, we went to the restaurant for breakfast. An array of fruits, cereals, breads, jams, bacon, sausages, eggs and toast were available....everything fresh and plentiful. For the rest of the morning we swam in the pool, lay on the sunloungers, spent time on the viewing platform watching various game and monkeys swinging through the tress, and relaxed. Lunch was offered at 1pm by which time we'd managed to work up an appetite! It was Mediterranean in flavour and style - cheeses, hams, a combination of salads, and a delicious homemade bacon quiche with grilled cheese on top, bread and salad dressing. At this point we all were fit to burst.

Unfortunately we were due back in Kampala by late afternoon, so with bags packed we said our farewells and rolled to the car. Mihingo Lodge is unique - it's managed to successfully fit into its natural surroundings, which is no easy feat seeing that it's been built on rock and environmentally everything seems to have been thought of, from using solar to heat the water to supplying constant power to the rooms. It's also family friendly - our friends were delighted to find a child's cot in their room, as well as a baby bath and they were given the opportunity of child care when we dined in the restaurant. The staff are hospitable, discreet and attentive and there was always ice for the drinks. Lake Mburu is a park that's often bypassed, however with the arrival of Mihingo Lodge I have no doubt that this is all set to change - and the one year old thinks so too....!