Standing in the vast openness, I stare up at the night sky and am in awe of what I see - more stars than I ever knew existed. The Milky Way is a smear in the sky. Looking up at this is the end to a perfect day in the African bush. There is a part of me that wants to keep this special place a secret but it wouldn’t be fair not to share what a wonderful place the Kidepo Valley National Park is and that the N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp is the perfect place to experience it all.

I have wanted to visit Kidepo NP for many years and finally had my chance. My husband and I packed up the Land Rover and together with family from overseas we set off full of anticipation to find out what this park was all about. Tucked in North Eastern Uganda and bordering the Sudan and Kenya we knew that getting there was going to be part of the fun. An early start from Kampala got us out onto the open road heading north and before we knew it we were crossing over the Nile and the stunning Karuma Falls. From there, we carried on down good roads with fantastic landscapes and arrived in Gulu just in time for lunch and a cold drink before driving on to Kitgum for an overnight stop at Fugly’s. Fugly’s is a great spot to overnight offering comfortable, clean rooms at affordable prices. The drinks are cold and there is a pool to cool off in. The food was delicious
and after a great meal, we were ready to get to bed for some rest to see what tomorrow had in store. We woke to the birds singing and the sun shining and sat down to a full cooked breakfast to order with coffee/ tea, and fresh juice. After a quick stop to fill up with fuel, we headed towards the Kidepo Valley.

This 2 ½ hour drive from Kitgum to the N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp was my favorite part of the drive. The graded murram road passes by numerous small villages with clusters of mud and thatch huts. Children lined the roadside waving, dancing and shouting out greetings. The road winds through the Keler and Loniyili mountain ranges and offers some amazing views. It’s not the kind of drive that you want to rush because there are so many places to stop and admire the scenery. As you drop down into the Kidepo Valley, the way to the camp is clearly marked with signs. We arrive right in time for lunch and meet our hosts, the proprietors of N’ga Moru and Fugly’s, Patrick and Lyn who are extremely welcoming.

The staff, all residents of the area greet us with big smiles and cold drinks. We sit down in the dining room and gaze across the valley and into the distance at the Morungule Mountains. Lunch arrives at the long table that we are sharing with the other guests and it is delicious and plenty. Lots of finger snacks with homemade chutney and chili sauces, I knew at that point that we would not go hungry and we would be spoiled with delicious food. Patrick and Lyn are seated at a table nearby and are full of information about the park and surrounding area. It
doesn’t take long to realize that they love the African bush and they revel in the joy in sharing it with their guests.

After lunch, we are eager to start exploring our surroundings. The camp sits on 98 acres on the border of the park. N’ga Moru means “The Place of Rocks” and just a few minutes into our late afternoon drive, I soon understand that the name is appropriate. We explore the area around the wilderness camp and there is plenty of game on the property and the views over the valley are outstanding. Kidpeo is so remote, unspoilt and pristine, you truly feel like you are in one of the last great wildernesses. Our accommodation is a large luxury canvas tent tucked under a thatched roof with a large toilet and shower ensuite. Hot water showers are available on request. There was plenty of space for our bags and the beds are comfortable. The beauty of the tents is that there is no need for mosquito nets; essentially you are sleeping in a giant net. Keeping the flaps
of the tent open allows for lots of fresh air and the sounds of park nightlife. Next to the tent under the thatch roof is a veranda with a couple of safari chairs that face the valley, a perfect spot to sit and literally take it all in. There are also hammocks so make sure you bring a good book.

Feeling refreshed after a nice shower, we walk up to the dining area. We are pleasantly surprised to see that there is a large fire pit surrounded by chairs with a fire ablaze. We sit down and position ourselves just right to enjoy the sunset over the mountains. With a cold drink in hand there isn’t anything more I could ask for, a stunning location, great company and a beautiful African sunset. Dinner is two courses starting with fresh bread and soup. It took a keen sense of taste to pick up the main ingredient in the soup, which turned out to be apple. I chose the grilled pork chops which were well seasoned and nicely cooked, served with potatoes, vegetables and a fresh tossed salad. There is a large garden out back where they grow herbs, lettuces and other veggies.
Vegetarians can be catered for; you just have to let them know. If you have a sweet tooth after your meal, this is where you will miss out. As the meal is only two courses, there is no dessert. I didn’t mind as the portions are substantial so you aren’t left hungry. If you really need to satisfy your sweet tooth, I recommend an Amarula nightcap.

After dinner we are treated to a night drive with Patrick. This is not a service they normally offer, but he was feeling generous as it was my brother in law’s 50th birthday, so off we went. After about 10 minutes, we heard a large noise in the bushes, an elephant not far off the road munching away at the grass. What a fantastic sighting, but the best was yet to come! I was sharing the back seat of the open air vehicle with a friend and we could hear a loud puffing noise coming from behind us. We shone our lights to see an extremely large puff adder; it was easily six feet long. It was the largest puff adder that any of us had ever seen. We sat in silence as it moved off the road and disappeared into the bush with all its grace and beauty, marveling at the pattern of
its skin. I am not a big fan of snakes, but do think they are beautiful from a distance of course and to witness this was a truly amazing sight!!

In the morning, we were woken by the light just in time to see a giant orange ball emerge from behind the mountains and flood the valley with daylight. Another day begins; the only question is what it will hold. We enjoy a full cooked breakfast made to order with coffee/tea and fresh juice. Now that we’re full, we are ready for a drive. It is a 10 minute drive to the Katarum Gate where we enter KVNP. Immediately we see a rock hyrax scurrying along the cliffs nearby. The drives are beautiful and there’s lots to see including a herd of buffalo which is rumored to be the largest standing herd in East Africa. The buffalo are on the move and it’s incredible to watch. There are also elephants, lion, zebra, giraffe, warthogs, crocodiles, oribi, waterbuck, bushbuck, reedbuck and numerous species of birds for us to enjoy. There is so much more I can tell you about this place and the three days that we spent there, but the best is to go and discover it for yourself, you won’t be
disappointed. N’ga Moru is a real bush experience in one of the most beautiful and remote parks in East Africa, Kidepo Valley National Park. The rates are reasonable at $150pppn full board and inclusive of beer and wine.

For more information and reservations, please contact:
N’ga Moru Wilderness Camp
Mobile: +256 754 500555
Email:ngamoruwildernesscamp@gmail.com.
Website: www.ngamoru.com